Gone are the days when prescribing glasses was as simple as merely choosing a frame based on the prescription. Today, it’s all about optimal fit and style. With the evolving emphasis on comfort coupled with the current demand for aesthetics, an engineer and an optician have teamed up to give consumers exactly what they need.
Asian consumers are generally known to be highly image conscious. According to Mr. Aw Tai Hau, co-founder and optical stylist at Pott Glasses—a Malaysian eyewear boutique focused on blending functionality with style and fashion— eyeglasses from many popular international brands, in most cases, may not carry what he calls the “Asian fit,” defined as low-bridge fit glasses.
Addressing the ‘Asian fit’ issue
“A majority of Asians do not have nose bridges as high as those of Caucasian faces. Also, ergonomics- wise, they generally have a smaller head width. So, ill-fitting glasses may result in frames that slip down or rest on the cheeks rather than sit comfortably on the nose bridge,” explained Mr. Tan Chaang Hoong, the other co-founder of Pott Glasses. “Not only that, this misfit can create pressure on the sides of the head, causing discomfort.”
Thus, when Mr. Tan and Mr. Aw started Pott Glasses about eight years ago, they decided that more considerations needed to be taken into account in the spectacle selection process. Over time, they have not only created their own brand of spectacle frames and offered some niche styles, but also pioneered the concept of ‘optical styling.’
“When it comes to the technicalities behind achieving the right fit for comfort, we, as professionals, need to consider not only selecting the right type of glasses and lenses but also making necessary adjustments,” said Mr. Tan. “We have eight steps, condensed into four dimensions, or aspects, for our customers. While fitting may sound simple to many, there is actually a lot of work that goes into the process.”
Framin’ it in eight steps
Mr. Tan explained the eight-step process further: “It’s not just about the power itself. First, we have to understand the pupil distance. Then, we need to consider the pupil height and the pantoscopic tilt, whether it’s tilt in or tilt out. Fourth, we look at the vertex distance, which is the distance between the lens and the eye. Fifth, we also need to consider the curvature of the frame, as it can affect the weight of the glasses and, consequently, influence the sensitivity of the frame’s feel on the skin,” he said.
“Subsequently, weight balancing is crucial. For example, if a person’s ears are positioned higher than their nose, their glasses are more likely to slip off easily,” Mr. Tan added. “Finally, opticians need to consider the grip factor and measure the head width.”
Further, Mr. Tan admitted that executing the same process consistently across all their outlets is easier said than done. “That’s why, at Pott Glasses, we provide training for our staff to follow our eight steps, ensuring consistency,” he enthused.
This optical styling process is simplified for their customers as “4D” or “four-dimensional styling.
The art of 4D styling
What are the 4Ds? Mr. Tan explained: “The number one factor is the customers’ prescription power. Higher power results in thicker lenses. So, we guide our customers to choose lighter lenses and frames. Otherwise, the entire spectacle would be too heavy, making them slip often and cause discomfort.”
“The second factor is attire and occupation,” he said. Here, the customer and the optician would discuss various occasions when the glasses will be worn, especially in professional settings. “One type of glasses may not suit all occasions, even if they are comfortable. We believe that style is also a very important consideration,” he added.
“For instance, we fit individuals in white-collar professions with glasses that exude an executive look. In contrast, we offer those in the design industry unique and distinctive frames. For professionals like doctors, lawyers, and architects, we may fit them with frames that feature materials that showcase their own distinctiveness,” said Mr. Tan. “This allows them to portray a specific desired image. We believe that glasses are among the first things we notice when meeting someone in person.”
“The third factor is the purpose or function, where we discuss why the customer would choose their glasses. Some people opt for glasses exclusively for office wear, while others choose them for sports. Additionally, some choose glasses only for the purpose of having a spare pair,” he continued.
“Fourthly, we consider face shapes and length,” he said, emphasizing that this aspect primarily focuses on aesthetics.
Street, structure, and millennial chic
“One thing is certain: Eyewear fashion has evolved rapidly in the last few years compared to 10 years ago. A significant transition was, for example, from rectangular, thick frames to thin, metal frames,” observed Mr. Aw. “This initial transition was inspired by South Korea and Japan, embracing a minimalist style. We simply cannot underestimate the impact and influence of K-pop and Japanese fashion, as they lead the way in setting trends across Asia,” he continued.
As far as trends go, Mr. Aw envisions two directions on the horizon. “First is streetwear. Here, you have glasses resembling those from Balenciaga. They’re unique, loud and, most of the time, these are sunglasses, giving off a very futuristic vibe,” he shared.
“After conquering clothing, streetwear has now moved on to glasses,” Mr. Aw said. “These glasses are bold, colorful and very metallic. However, you may have to compromise on comfort and shape, as these are primarily fashion statements,” he continued, adding that they also carry Y2K- inspired sunglasses, tapping into the resurgence of designs from the 2000s that is currently trending among millennials.
If you’re wondering how to strike a balance between offering style and comfort, Mr. Aw advised understanding the customer’s purpose for getting the glasses. He suggested following up by stating the pros and cons of each choice to clearly set their expectations.
The other new direction on the horizon, according to Mr. Aw, revolves around functionality and design. “New mechanics are coming up on the structure and combination of materials. For instance, instead of a normal hinge, we’re talking about more unique hinges, like the ones by Lindberg and 999.9 [Four Nines], a Japanese brand,” he said. “These are the brands that focus more on the structure of the glasses. They’re not only comfortable but also very elegant and delicate.”
In a league of their own
Pott Glasses produces its own frames and designs. “We believe that our brands, which are similarly categorized and positioned as Warby Parker and Oscar Wylee, could fill the market gap in terms of comfort, pricing, structure and style. For instance, sometimes the designs of Korean brands can be overwhelming for Asians who prefer more subtle styles. That’s where we come in,”Mr. Aw explained.
Similar to the fashion industry, Mr. Aw and Mr. Tan continue to refine the details of their designs and processes, evolving through constant self-evaluations based on customer feedback. As a testament to their unique approach at Pott Glasses, the upcoming season in 2024 will witness the launch of four new outlets.
There’s also the 3D optical printing trend. “We’ve recently visited an optical fair, and we believe that the finishing for 3D printing still has room for improvement.
“This is if we’re talking about the whole set of glasses. However, if we’re talking about parts of glasses that we could assemble, then, that would be doable and quite appealing,” Mr. Aw concluded.
Editor’s Note: This article was published in COOKIE Magazine Issue 14.
